Each Cook Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on List of London’s Best Restaurants.

When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.